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I am building a treehouse out back and have a couple great trees that would work fine. Will it hurt the tree if I put a couple of large screws or a bolt into the trunk?
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I must first say that I don\'t recommend any tree climbing without using safety equipment that you are trained to use. That said, tree houses and tree climbing are a great way to enjoy trees. There will be decay that starts as a result of drilling or screwing into a tree. Some trees will resist decay better than others. It is important to not only choose a tree that
resists decay well, but is also safe to begin with. Avoid trees with large dead branches, weak unions or limbs with cracks, etc. An ISA certified Arborist can help you with that. I would
recommend building a tree house that is not actually connected to the tree. A post-type footing is minimally invasive to the tree\'s root system. With proper construction you can build a
nice, high house that will last much longer than one attached to a tree. By doing this you would not damage the tree but could still enjoy being in the tree.
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I have area trees (not in my yard) right now causing all kinds of white fiber/cotton type falling all over. At times it looks like it is snowning. What type of tree is that and will it hurt my lawn?
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This \"cotton\" is from cottonwood trees. Cottonwood is one of those trees that have male and female specimens. The females produce cotton. I cannot say whether or not it will hurt your lawn. I don\'t know.
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I hear stories about some bugs coming our way that will cause havoc on our trees? What can I do about it? What trees are affected?
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The Emeral Ash Borer (EAB) is a small green beetle that is fatal to ash trees. These beetles effectively strangle the tree by interrupting water and nutrient flow between the roots and the branches. The drastic effects of AB have shown to be even more devastating than the Dutch elm disease epidemic that first reached Minnesota in the 1970s. Now almost 40 years later EAB has been found in Minnesota (St. Paul) and will begin to take its toll.
Although there are moderately effective treatments that could save high-valued trees, however no method has been found to stop the spread of EAB. Treatment of trees SHOULD NOT BE DONE until EAB is found within 15 miles of Rochester. It is also very important for all of us to not transport firewood over long distances and to obey the quarantines in place around infested areas. You can check our website for the latest information on EAB. Just go to the education section of www.forestandtree.com.
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I have a hole in the bottom of my tree at the base, the tree seems to be doing fine but should I fill it in or leave it?
I hear stories about some bugs coming our way that will cause havic on our trees? What can I do about it? What trees are affected?
I have area trees (not in my yard) right now causing all kinds of white fiber/cotton type falling all over. At times it looks like it is snowning. What type of tree is that and will it hurt my lawn?
I am building a treehouse out back and have a couple great trees that would work fine. Will it hurt the tree if I put a couple of large screws or a bolt into the trunk?
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The hole in your trees was origianlly caused by a wound that started the process of decay. Anything that we do that would potentially wound that area again is bad. The best way to handle a hole is to leave it alone. The tree will not decay any faster if we leave the hole open. In fact it might decay faster if we try to close it.
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I have a verigated maple tree and each year it has a number of unverigated leaves on some of the branches. Should i trim those branches out? Are there any other special care needs for this type of tree?
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Thanks for the question. To answer the second part first, there is no special care needed for a variegated leaf maple. Trees in general need a root zone that has oxygen (not compacted), sufficient water, regular
addition of nutrients (through the breakdown of mulch or the addition of
fertilizer). The also need a trunk and branches with good branch
attachments and structure and minimal decay. These things are sometimes
hard to achieve in trees and other times they are not. It depends on
the site the tree is planted, the original condition of the tree when it
is planted and how it was cared for in the early years of its life (1st
five years).
The second part of your question is about the irregular variegation.
This is common in trees that are cultured by grafting. The root stock
of a regular Norway maple is grafted to a stem of variegated leaf maple.
I would not prune simply on the basis of variegation or not. I know it
may look weird, but the tree should be pruned to encourage good branch
structure, remove deadwood and obtain the clearances you need for your
house or roads. If that happens to include removal of the
non-variegated portions then great. Otherwise, I would not remove them.
Please call our office if you have additional questions. Thanks!
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| Q: |
I have a mountain ash in my back yard. The first year I planted it it flowered and got berries. The last 2 years, no flowering or berries. What is going on? The rest of the tree looks very good. Thanks!
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Mountain Ash trees are susceptible to a few diseases. However the lack of fruiting/flowers is strange. Fruit is a result of flowers; so the 2 go hand-in-hand. Potentially there could be flowers with no fruit (if flowers do not get pollinated), but never the other way around.
Flowers may be physically removed by animals or hail when they are developing. They may also not develop at all if there is not enough sunlight or if the tree is stressed in another way. I suspect that one of these is the case. I am not aware of any flowering cycle on mountain ash.
I will have Nate, our Plant Health Care Specialist, also follow up with you by phone in the next day or two. He may have more insight to this problem.
Thank you so much for your question. Feel free to call our office if you need more information.
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We have a cottonwood tree next door--the house has been vacant for 6 months--is is losing its leaves and small twigs, some cotton is still stuck on them. The leaves don't appear to have any bugs or marks but are turning brown. I am afraid our own cottonwood will soon suffer the same fate. Is the tree dying??
Thanks, char
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Hello Char,
It is hard to say for sure what is going on without seeing it. However
there are a couple of root-rots and cankers that are common on the
cottonwood genus (includes aspens/poplars). These can cause the
symptoms you have described. If the problem is the root-rot, the best
thing you can do is keep your tree healthy (water, mulch and fertilize)
and avoid making any large pruning cuts or other wounds. Typically this
is a secondary pathogen that takes advantage of stressed trees.
It could even be abiotic factors such as a lightning strike, chemical
injury, or root stress, in which case your tree would not be more
susceptible by its proximity to the dying tree.
Below is a link to the U of MN extension website that may help you. It
will help you key out the problem. If you cannot make a conclusion
based on this key, I would have to see the tree to know for sure.
However, keeping your tree healthy and vigorous is a sure way to avoid
most problems.
http://www.extension.umn.edu/yardandgarden/diagnostics/aspen-s.html
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| Q: |
When is the best time to plant a tree?
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The ideal time to plant trees and shrubs is during the dormant season when the ground is not frozen—in the fall after leaf drop or early spring before budbreak. Weather conditions are cool and allow plants to establish roots in the new location before spring rains and summer heat stimulate new top growth. However, trees properly cared for in the nursery or garden center, and given the appropriate care during transport to prevent damage, can be planted throughout the growing season.
If the tree you are planting is balled or bare root, it is important to understand that its root system has been reduced by 90 to 95 percent of its original size during transplanting. As a result of the trauma caused by the digging process, trees commonly exhibit what is known as transplant shock. Containerized trees may also experience transplant shock, particularly if they have circling roots that must be cut. Transplant shock is indicated by slow growth and reduced vigor following transplanting.
Proper site preparation before and during planting coupled with good follow-up care reduces the amount of time the plant experiences transplant shock and allows the tree to quickly establish in its new location.
Always, before you plant a tree, be sure you have had all underground utilities located prior to digging.
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| Q: |
When is the best time to trim trees?
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There are varying opinions out there on this question. Most tree companies would want you to believe that there are no “bad” times to trim (Other than Oaks and maybe Elms). Trimming without discretion or consideration to a number of factors is not recommended. Diseases are often spread through open tree wounds in the spring and summer (Oak Wilt in particular). In the spring tree bark is more tender and hard not to tear. Trimming can stress trees and make them more susceptible to certain pests. The reality is that dormant pruning is probably best but not always feasible. Few trees will actually be harmed by pruning in the spring and summer if done properly. This may be the only option given a tree company’s busy pruning schedule. In any case, the Arborist should give full consideration to all factors that may effect your tree.
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| Q: |
How important is tree pruning?
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Pruning is a critical part of your tree's life. If done properly, the tree can have beautiful form, withstand high winds, resist decay and live a long life. If done improperly, your tree can be unsafe, unsightly and short-lived.
Urban trees need some direction as they grow. This direction is given through proper pruning by Certified Arborists. ‘Proper’ is a key word. Proper pruning means the cut is made just outside the branch collar and only selected limbs are removed. Because the branch collar contains trunk or parent branch tissues, the tree will be damaged unnecessarily if you remove or damage it. The tree may suffer permanent internal decay from an improper pruning cut. Also, by removing only selected limbs you leave the tree with adequate the maximum number of ‘food-producers’ (leaves) to sustain the tree all year long.
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| Q: |
What is the difference between an Arborist and a Forester?
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An Arborist cares for individual trees and a Forester cares for groups, or stands of trees. An Arborist should be certified through the International Society of Arboriculture (ISA). A Forester is one who has earned a B.S. in Forestry or Urban Forestry.
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What is an Arborist and why hire one?
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An Arborist is a specialist in the care of individual trees. Arborists are knowledgeable about the needs of trees and are trained and equipped to provide proper care.
Hiring an arborist is a decision that should not be taken lightly. Proper tree care is an investment that can lead to substantial returns. Well-cared-for trees are attractive and can add considerable value to your property.
Poorly maintained trees can be a significant liability. Pruning or removing trees, especially large trees, can be dangerous work. Tree work should be done only by those trained and equipped to work safely in trees.
An internationally Certified Arborist is the distinguishing mark of a good tree person. This certification shows that an individual is competent as an Arborist. Proficiency in tree biology, insects and diseases, the soil/water relationship, climbing and rigging techniques and more set these people apart. Most importantly, there is code of ethics that an arborist adheres to that can almost assure the customer they are in good hands.
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expert: Jay Maier
